Street Chopper's "DAILY DYNA" Build

We are starting out with a 2010 H-D Dyna Street Bob and we are going to trick it out to be something that our readers would be into commuting to and from their jobs on.


Here she is the day we brought her home:



 

The first thing we are going to upgrade is the seat. Though the Stock seat is not bad looking, we wanted something a bit lower and with less of a "Bobber" feel to it.

We ended up calling Le Pera and the sent us out one of its Bare Bone solo seats on black leather. the removal and replacement of the seat only takes one single Phillips screwdriver to accomplish the task, so this barely counts as tech.


We pulled the seat mount screw.





Yanked the stock seat from the bike.





Installed the new seat from Le Pera





And tightened down the mounting screw.




As you can see from these photos the seats though both being solos are drastically different in shape and size.





 

JOKER MACHINE AIR CLEANER

Wanting to de-chrome and streamline this bike were jobs one and two on our Dyna, so we decided that getting rid of the big chrome OEM air cleaner and adding a smaller and better-breathing unit from Joker Machine would aid us in both of those things.





We start the swap by pulling off the stock air cleaner cover

















The Joker machine air cleaner has an ingenious crankcase venting system that is built-in to the CNC-machined backing plate.





using plenty of blue Locktite we affix the backing plate to the throttlebody of the bike's EFI unit.





The crankcase vent standoffs were installed and tightened down.





The K&N-manufactured filter was bolted into place using a single 12-point bolt and along with the smooth outer cover the the job was then done.





There was definitely an upgrade in the looks department and with the slight design and better breathing filter, we are sure we gained at least a few ponies. We wont know for sure until we get the bike on the Dyno after a few more uggrades.



BEFORE:




AFTER:

 

JOKER MACHINE PEGS

We decided that we wanted a set of shorter-than-stock pegs that has more of an aggressive look and feel to them. Yet again Joker Machine fit the bill with a set of its adjustable serrated foot pegs. These pegs are CNC-machined and look like large MX pegs. They are pitch adjustable, which means they will for for any height person with any size foot.






We started by pulling the stock rubber H-D footpegs off.







The Shifter Peg will also have a serrated Joker Machine peg installed.





Here is how the Stock pegs stack up the Joker Machine offerings.





All of the new the pegs were bolted on the bike using the factory hardware.





Before:






After:



 

A TRIP TO RACE TECH




We trotted over to Race Tech with a set of Fat Bob lowers and sweet suspension on our minds. When we arrived Eric and Tony greeted us with open arms. Tony asked us what we were expecting from our trip out to them. the crieteria we told him was three-fold. We wanted performance suspension, blacked-out forks, and dual discs, Tony said he had the Performance conversion handled and the other two the H-D Fat Bob lowers provided for us.

Tony started the suspension upgrade by stinging the bike up in a K&L rack and showing us the new legs going on the bike.





Tony then pulled off the brake caliper and front wheel.







The front fender, which ties the two legs together was also removed.





The top and bottom trees were loosened and the legs were slid out.









Tony hit the fork caps with a little heat to break the factory-installed locktite loose.




Once the fork cap was loose, Tony measured the preload, then drained the fluid from the fork legs and removed the springs.





Tony applied a bit more heat to the for seal caps and then removed the lowers from the stanchion tubes.






The holes of the damping rods were enlarged as well as adding a few more to increase the flow of oil.











The modified damping rod was reinstalled in the stanchion tube.





The new black lower was mated to the tubes.





The Gold Valve Emulator was installed along with the new spring and Race Tech's own brand of fluid.









The top cap was tightened and the internal parts swap was done




The new black legs were slid back into the bike and tightened to factory specs.





The wheel went back on and the fender was modified to fit the new lower legs













 

RACE TECH REAR SHOCK INSTALL

While we were at Race Tech, we also were lucky enough to have them install as set of their piggyback shocks. Race Tech shocks are manufactured from the finest materials available. They are custom built to your exact specifications to provide you with a superior quality for high performance riding and excellent durability. All shocks are assembled by hand and valving and spring rates are selected dependent on your individual needs (weight, height, riding type, and skill level). The Shocks all feature Adjustable Preload, Hi/Lo Speed Compression and Rebound adjustments.



The stock shocks were mechanically okay, but since we went with an upgraded front suspension, we decided to change the rears out.





Here's the new piggyback shocks from Race Tech. They offer much better ride quality over the OEM versions. we also went with a 1/2-inch longer than stock shock to gain a bit more ground clearance.





We yanked the old shocks off the bike and check for anything funky.





Here's a quick look at the difference between the the OEM shock and the Race Tech piggybacks.





With no wear or stripped threads to be found, the new shocks were installed.











Though the install was simple, the difference in ride quality was instantly noticeable. The new shocks were much more plush on the "hi-frequency" freeway bumps and they soaked up the big hits without fail.









For more info on these shocks check out Race Tech's Site:
RACE TECH  

PIPED IN!

Since day one of owning this bike we have wanted to install a better sounding exhaust. Well in our ears there's not many better sounding pipes than a Thunderheader when it comes to unleashing a Twin Cam's engine's sound. With that said we gave our pals at Thunderheader a call and the next day the brown santa dropped us of an all-black version.





Here's the whisper-quiet stock pipes that work well, but don't have the attitude we are after





We start by pulling the seat to gain access to the rear oxygen sensor.







We then unscrewed the front and rear head bolts from the engine.







The right foot control was removed.









The front and rear oxygen sensor wires were unclipped and the stock pipes were then removed.





The new pipe mount was installed onto the transmission.




The OE oxygen sensors were threaded into the new Thunderheader's bungs and it was then ready to be installed.



















The oxygen sensor wires were remounted in their stock locations.





And were done!

 

ACCESSORIZE

We Wanted to add a bit more black and cover up the few ugly bits that this Dyna has. With the help of the Harley-Davidson P&A catalog we sourced a set of axle covers as well as a new all-black oil cap with digital readout.



The Oil cap is about as easy an upgrade that could ever be done. It's a remove and replace affair.













The Front Axle covers are simple as pie to install and come complete with the correct allen wrench is which to tighten the set screws with.
















The rear ones attach the same way as the front















We also decided to ditch the OE "points" cover for a lil H-D aftermarket action.





 

DUELING DISCS

We decided to up the effort on our front brakes and went the all OE "parts bin" route through Harley Davidson. Knowing that our Street Bob came with a dual-Disc hub it made the job even easier.

Earlier, when we took our bike to Race Tech they added the Fat Bob Bob Dual-Disc lowers. From there we orderd up a right-side front caliper, a rotor, a big bore 11/16-inch master cylinder from the fine folks at LA Harley-Davisdon. all that was left was getting a dual front brake in all-black from Magnum Sheilding and the parts pile was ready to go.



The Front Wheel was Pulled from the bike and the hub cover was taken off.







The H-D parts were pulled out of the box and inspected.





The only difference between the OE master and the new one is the bore, but it's a MAJOR one when converting to dual-discs due to the fact that it needs to push more juice to operate the two calipers.







See, it looks exactly the same when mounted.





We purchased the Magnum Shielding dual brake line due to its reputation of quality. and the all black didn't hurt either.





We installed the new right-side caliper with all OEM hardware so it looked the same as the left side.




We then added DOT 4 brake fluid to the master cylinder brake reservoir and carefully bled the brakes of any and all air bubbles.





In no time we were up and running and yanking stoppies down the street like the wheelie king Doug Domokus

 

BAR TIME!





Well, the OEM bars on the Street Bob, just don't fit my body or riding style. The bend on them is too much and my wrists are messed up enough from years of missing double-jumps.

We gave WEST COAST T-BARS a call and then sent us a set of 10-inch T-bars in gloss black. Knowing that the 2010 Street Bob comes with integrated clamps in the risers we used an earlier model FXDB clamp.



We started by pulling the seat (the fist move in just about any Harley tech piece) and pulled the tank mounts to gain access to the handlebar wiring connectors.





















Once all the wires were disconnected, we pulled the connectors off the internal wires and pulled the controls off the stock bars.













With the controls off of the bars, we then pulled off the top clamp and handlebars as one unit.











Before we could put the new bars on the HD top tree, we installed some urethane bushings from H-D.







Here's the difference between the stock bars and the WEST COAST T-BARS. As you can see no new control cables or brake lines are needed by choosing the 10-inch T-bars.





We cleaned up the fork tubes and checked them for any damage before we slid the new setup on the bike.











With the Bars and top clamp secured to the bike, we started internally wiring the hand controls. We find using a ballchain like military dog tags have on them to work best to get the wires started through the bars.





We went with a set of billet grips from JOKER MACHINE. Though they are made of aluminum and are knurled, they are surprisingly comfortable.





And on when the stock controls and new grips.









Then the wires were routed to the connectors under the gas tank.








Once all of the wres were in their proper plcaes, the gas tank was bolted back onto the bike.






And here's the final product. The West Coast T-bars look a ton better than the stock bars. They looks are of, but the bike now rides much better and has a sportier feel. Think big BMX bike.



 

FAIRING TIME!




We scored one of Arlen Ness' newly-redesigned quarter fairings for H-D's 49mmm mid-glide frontend. The fairing  comes gloss black with everything necessary to install it on the bike, which means having to fab up your own mounts is now a thing of the past. We took ours over to Santini Paint for a matching Denim Black paintjob before we mounted it on the bike. Pete used some new paint from PPG that has the exact look and feel of the OEM paint, but apparently it's easier to paint with and can be cleaned easier.







Instead of the old 4-point mounting of past Ness fairings this new kit comes with a 3-point system that employs a replacement billet aluminum mount under the headlight. that's way we are yanking the OEM mount.





We painted the mount flat black with some rattle can action so it would blend in with the rest of the fairing. as you can see it brings the headlight up as well as out so it fits into the headlight hole in the fairing correctly with no guessing.





We attached the supplied stainless steel clamps to the fork tubes and zip-tied them so they would stay on the tubes, but could be moved around before final clamping occurred.





The Brackets were then attached to the clamps withthe supplied hardware.





The directions ask for the supplied stainless steel clamps to be affixed to the fork tubes 1/2-inch down from the bottom of the top tree, so we busted out a tape measure and got it right.





The fairing itself was slid over the headlight and was attached to the new bracket with a single screw.





The two side brackets were then attached to either side of the fairing. Then a bit of time was taken to align all of the brackets up so the fairing was square on the bike.





Once the fairing was on the bike correctly and all mounting points were snugged up, we installed the windshield using the nylon nut and bolts supplied with the kit.  

EnGAUGEment.

We are starting to spread the black love around on our Daily Dyna and this time we concentrated on de-chroming the dash and tank. We contacted Dakota Digital in order to get one of its MCL-3204 direct plug-in LED gauges. The new gauge does everything the stock model did, but has a ton of other features that fit into one single gauge.  Here's the specs:

   * Fits stock mounting cup without modifications (does not fit Dakota Digital mounting hardware)
   * Fully adjustable 0- 255 MPH or KM/h Speedometer.
   * Arching Tachometer with adjustable shift point, can also be displayed as a digital numeric readout.
   * Gear Shift Position Indicator (3 to 7 speed transmissions).
   * Odometer with Dual Trip Odometers.
   * Voltmeter with low voltage alert
   * Clock
   * Cylinder Head Temperature (on models with factory head temp sensors).
   * Resettable Miles to Service with warning (user settable countdown) and hourmeter.
   * Various indicators can also be displayed such as Check Engine, Low Fuel and Security Indicators.
   * Several performance calculations include: 0- 60 time, high Speed & high RPM recall, 1/4 mile time and speed.
   * Black front bezel .
   * Machined aluminum housing.

We also gave the fine folks at Harley-Davidson a jingle and were lucky enough to score a set of H-D's Black Flush Fuel Cap and Gauge kits. The are really good looking units and also use LED lighting to show how much fuel is in the tank.

Since the H-D caps are only avalible with blue LED lights, we opted to also go with Dakota Digital's blue guage over the Red one they also make.

Once we received the parts, we hustled them over to Westminster Harley-Davidson and had them installed while we shot the pics.



Here's the new darkness we are are about to put on our Mob Bob.





This is the way the the tank and dash look from the factory.





Out of the box, you can see just how blacked out the gauges and fuel cap are.





The Stock Fuel Cap is pulled and we went to work installing the new pop-up cap and matching trim ring.











The Tank had to be lifted to gain access to the fuel gauge wiring, so the mounts were loosened.







The stock fuel gauge wiring connector had to be removed so it could be removed from the tank.







The new flush LED cap was then mounted into the fuel tank and the OEM connector was installed.







The tank was then reinstalled and snugged up so it wouldn't go anywhere while installing the Dakota Digital gauge.





The dash was removed from the tank and then the stock gauge was taken out from it.







Here's a look at the stock gauge as compared to the Dakota Digital unit





The new gauge went in to the dash just as easily as the old one came out. From there we plugged the single connection we had and put the dash back on the bike.





The set up of the new LED gauge is very easy and Dakota Digital covers every single step completely withing its included instructions.





Here's shots of the new gauges both with the bike off as well as in full illumination mode



 

TUNING TIME!





After swapping out the intake and exhaust for more free-flowing units on our project Street Bob, we sensed our already lean-running bike was now operating anorexically in the air/fuel mixture department. The addition to a free-flowing high-performance exhaust, such as the ThunderHeader, an ultra high-flow K&N intake can drastically change the airflow through the motor. This is due to reversion (pressure waves) during the valve overlap period that the stock motor and computer (ECM) is not set up for. This reversion affects the cylinder fill and air/fuel mixture based on RPM that the stock closed-loop ECM is set to. Yes folks, this can mean some loss of power at points throughout the powerband, but we were most worried about the adverse effects of an extremely lean running condition.





The MasterTune System
Knowing the bike needed some sort of tuning software to make it run correctly, we went with TTS's MasterTune H-D ($425) setup. The system is a Windows-based ECM reprogramming tool specifically for use with '01-later Delphi-equipped Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The MasterTune is widely known as a thorough tuning software for our machines and it has a great reputation for first getting bikes to run properly, then building horsepower from a safe and proper baseline level. Though we are only tuning our bike using the basics, this system is vast and just about every aspect of the ECM management can be tuned to the given engine's need, no matter how big the motor is or what parts were used to build it. The MasterTune has many in-depth features such as saving and restoring the original factory calibration, changing of factory speedometer calibration, changing factory RPM limit, adjustment of front and rear cylinder spark advance, as well as each cylinder's volumetric efficiency.





When we strapped our bike to the dyno at Gene Thomason Racing in Torrance, California, we were not looking for magically big numbers on either horsepower or torque, we just wanted our bike to run safely and efficiently with the induction and exhaust changes we made. Added horsepower would just be a bonus. On hand for the tuning were both Steve Cole, the owner of TTS, and Gene Thomason, who is also a virtuoso of the MasterTune software. These guys combined have thousands of dyno tuning sessions under their belts, so it was safe to say this bike was going to get the help it needed.





We first took a few dyno pulls to get some base information. Take into account that the stock readings of this bike without the upgraded pipe and air cleaner was 62.1 hp and 78.8 lb-ft and the first dyno pulls we had with the ThunderHeader and K&N filter were 66.3 hp and 92.8 lb-ft. The findings also showed us that our Dyna was running fairly lean. There were also a few issues with timing, fuel, and spark throughout the curve of our dyno chart that we had to address as well.





Once the MasterTune software was loaded into the laptop and plugged into our bike's data port, a marriage of sorts happened where the TTS system electronically mated itself to our Dyna. From there a mirror image of the stock calibration the ECM was running was made and saved into the MasterTune software. This was done in case any mistakes happened during the tuning process or if the bike ever needs to be returned to its stock configuration.





We then picked a base calibration from TTS's massive library. These "canned" calibrations have been amassed from the thousands of dyno runs and tuning sessions TTS has done of various Harley-Davidson motorcycles with hundreds of aftermarket component combinations.





This graph shows how the TTS system can even adjust each cylinder's AFR mixture separately to control spark and temperature throughout the RPM range.





When the MasterTune system had secured the information it had been given, we turned on the software's VTune mode. This part of the process allows MasterTune to gather massive amounts of data while the engine is running through various gears, RPM, and throttle position. In short, VTune is pretty much is a dyno inside of the software. So much so, that a person can do this stage of tuning without the use of a dyno while riding the bike around his neighborhood.

Once all of the needed values in the VTune graph were filled up, we checked out the info. It was at that time that a few parameter changes were made to the canned calibration the bike was running. These changes were adding a bit more fuel to the rear cylinder between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm, richening up the mixture between 3,400 and 4,400 rpm, as well as also adding slightly more spark where needed.





From there we dynoed the bike at wide-open throttle and tweaked the calibration slightly more to smooth out acceleration at higher RPMs. A few more pulls were made to see if any beneficial changes were needed to the software. It was decided that with only the mild upgrade we made, it was better to not get too crazy trying to squeeze every last pony out of our engine; it is better to have a smooth running bike with the proper air/fuel ratio, spark, and timing. With this done, the final numbers on our bike with the MasterTune installed was 74.2 hp with 93.7 lb-ft of torque.





This was only a 12.1 hp and 14.9 lb-ft increase over stock, but the quality of how the bike makes these factors is the key to the MasterTune's success. When riding the bike on the streets, the power feels much stronger and comes on in a more linear fashion. There was no hesitation in the powerband while shifting like before and no popping on deceleration where the bike used to sound like a drum set. Even though we only scratched the surface of what can be done with the MasterTune system, the consensus was if you are looking for big dyno numbers to impress your friends and don't care about the quality of how you get them, then the MasterTune is not for you. This system makes power by tuning all of the engine's various activities and then it makes them work in unison. By doing so, the MasterTune system meshes the ECM and the engine as one strong running package that you know has been properly tuned.  

NEW REAR FENDER!





Since our bike is getting further away from being a "bobber" style, we decided that we would give our pals at Harley-Davidson a call and order up a "Superglide" style fender, which better complemented the upgrades we have been doing to the bike.

The first thing we did when we received the new fender was shuffle it off to Santini Paint for a coat of PPG Paint's new Semi-flat black. the paint came out great an matches the OEM paint color to a tee. There was only one problem. Before we got our new fender home, the fender was dropped and a pea-sized dent found it's way onto the top of our brand-new fender.

Not wanting to have Pete Santini do the job all over, we decided to have a paint-less dent removal company try their hand at getting the ding out. It took just one call to Dents No More and we had our man out in a few hours to access the damage


He informed us that we had to install the new fender on the bike so he could get the leverage needed to pull out the dent, so off came the Bobbed sheetmetal.











Here is the side-by-side comparison of the Bobbed vs. Superglide fender.





We then installed the new, but dented fender and had Dents No More do its thing.













In less than a half-hour the fender looked as if it never had any sort of prior damage done to it. And the price to do so was a fraction of when it would have cost to repaint it. we highly suggest going this route if you have the same issues on your own bike.





With the new fender on the bike and looking good, we buttoned up the rest of the mounting bolts with our trusty Porter Cable power tools.





We also added a set of AutoGem's bullet turn signals, which are much smaller than the OEM signals. they are also LED and bright!







For safety's sake yet again, we installed a Kisan Electronics "Trailblazer" light that pulses when activated attracting much attention to your bike when braking or stopped.






We also went with a "Lay-Down" License Plate Mount from Kuryakyn.



 

Big Black Rear Wheel and Rubber





It's a known fact I hate cleaning my bike and the stock spoked wheels are friggin' hard to clean. Plus that silver hub is also not going well with my murderous rampage of darkness I have been bestowing upon the 2010 Street Bob.

We are concentrating on the rear of the bike this time around and decided we wanted an all-black disc wheel, so we went with a killer 17x5.5 billet smoothie from Custom Chrome





I wanted to upgrade to a 180 tire to fill up the rear fender, so a Pirelli "Night Dragon" tire was chosen






Once all the parts got here from Custom Chrome, we took the whole lot to Wheel Works in Garden Grove, California where our favorite skinhead Adam chucked the rad rear wheel onto Daily Dyna. check out how the man got it done!

The bike get hopped up on the rack and Adam didnt waiste a second in getting the OE wheel off the bike.




















Once the rear wheel was off, Adam pulled off the pulley and rotor, which we will be using until our solid Lyndall Racing Brakes Rotor and custom smooth pulley can be made.







We also hit the stock pulley with a bit of spray paint so it wouldnt stick out like a sore thumb when mounted on the new rear wheel.





Here's the side-by-side comparison of the old wheel and the new one on the left.





The old stuff was then put on the new wheel







The wheel was then digitally balanced.





Adam then got busy slappin' the new wheel onto the bike.













Here's how the darkness looked mounted on the bike. Tough huh?







BEFORE:





AFTER:





TA DAHHHHH!