'88 Sporty: wiring harness build

Hello all - having had my bike running long enough to crash it once, and then destroying a perfectly good ignition module, I am now in the process of rebuilding it.  I'm a rank amateur, so all comments/advice/bad jokes at my expense are welcome.

I have an '88 Sportster, 883, that has been, well, neglected.  The engine is solid, and most everything else has been addressed - sheetmetal, frame, fuel/oil lines, etc.

I'm now in the process of rebuilding the wiring harness from scratch.  I *think* I have a good idea of what I'm doing, but I would like any advice.  The bike no longer has turn signals or stock handlebar electrical controls; I'm replacing the starter relay with a Pollak 33-105 marine ignition switch.  Ignition is with points, no electronic module.  Stock dual fire coil.

My main concerns are: 1) can I treat the stator/rotor assembly as a "generator" for wiring purposes?

2) I would like to wire in a hidden kill switch - what's the best way to do this?

3) What is the best way to incorporate fuses?

Many thanks!  

Hello jkenning,
    You've completed the main ingredients for your ride, now comes the nitty-gritty.  My ride, I've been able to pass safety check without signal lights since 1973, but recent federal mandate safety check stations across the state requires signal lights "and reflectors," so if you run without them, that's instant ticket from the "Man," include additional tickets if you don't make hand signals.  I have since figured a way to adapt a prototype moped signals much simpler wiring, now working on an electronic timer, another issue I have with signal lights from the factory!  If you're in the same situation, hopefully you still have your signals stored where retrievable?  Now about your main concerns, it helps to draw up your own custom wiring diagram so re-configuring cuts waste of wire, time, and splicing if changes necessary and don't loose it:
1)  A generator has to be wired according to the matching regulator designed for it or with generic aftermarket transistor box!  Refer to the wiring diagram to isolate the actual wires needed to hook things up to your liking.
2)  Refer to the wiring diagram where the main + positive wire connects to your ignition switch, then somewhere along the wire, tap into a switch of sufficient amperage to handle current, make a bracket to mount it, where concealable, but where readily accessible when needed!  The other option, a large amp switch between the main battery cable, but not as easily concealed, though small enough to place in a lockable compartment!
3)  Shouldn't there be a fuse box/block from factory and/or junction box, if still have it, re-designate all the wires and splace to what you want on your ride.  If not have original, get fuse block from local electronic store.  You may want to incorporate a junction block instead of solder splicing the wires?